Frequently Asked Questions


Q) How do I determine what valve I need for my automatic stock tank?

 A) You need to determine if the back of the valve is ½”, ¾” or 1”. That determines how it hooks up to the tank. It will use a hook-up hose that has either a male or female threaded end. Once you know this, you can select from any number of valves in that size.


Q) I don’t like the valve I have in my tank as its unreliable. Which type should I buy to replace it?

A)  Your input size and hook up in the tank determines the size of valve you should use. All the valves are orificed to handle the type of pressure that the hook-up hose can deliver. In small bowls Hawkeye and Franklin are both good choices. In larger bowls the Advanced Valve or Brass Valve are your best choices.


Q) My arm on my existing valve is different than the one used on the valve I would like to use will I need to change it also?

A) All valves have a specific type of float arm. We have several under “Float Arms” a good number of them use a ¼” or 5/16” threaded rod which is easy. If it’s a flat style you can select from a few different lengths and most of those use a plastic thumb screw. If this gets too complicated you may want to look at the “Complete Valve, Float Arm and Float” section and just get the whole setup. It is less money buying a complete than buying all the individual parts.


Q) What if my float arm is longer or shorter than the ones you show?

A) If it’s a ¼” rod style buy one that is a bit longer and cut it down. The ¼” and 5/16” rods are all thread and stainless steel so you can do this easily.


Q) I don’t see the answer to my question listed here what should I do?

A) We have an inquiry page that you can fill out and if you tell us what type and size of tank you have we will be happy to make a recommendation for valves or any other parts required.


Q) I don’t see the type of valve I have in my tank listed on the site what should I do?

A) Fill out our "Contact Us" page and we will either source it for you or suggest a replacement. We have hundreds of other items that are not as easily recognised and can send you information on any of those if they are appropriate for your tank design.


Q) I am building my own tank and may use a tire. What style of valve and float system should I use?

A) In our “Complete Valve, Float Arm and Float” section we have several types of valves and complete units that can either be mounted above the water or under it at the base of the unit.


Q) I have Petcocks on my valves and I hate them they seize and leak do you have a solution?

A) Look at our Petcock replacement kit in the “Specialty Items” section it’s a stainless and brass ball valve with all the adapters to replace that Petcock without going to town 8 times!!


Q) I am using brass valves and they leak what can I do?

A) Depending on your water quality brass may not be your best choice as it reacts to everything (Rust, Calcium, Mag you name it) Try the Advanced Valves they are PVC, so non-porous, they have all but eliminated this issue all over North America.



Q) How do I decide what type of arm I need for my valve or a new valve if I decide to change it?

A) Float arms can be tricky unless they are a simple ¼” rod style. It may make some sense to fill out our inquiry page. By giving us the type (name) of tank you have or the application the valve you have is used for we can recommend the correct float arm.


Q) Is there any way I can make sure that the float arm I purchase is going to work in my tank?

A) It may be just as easy to look through our “Complete Valve, Float Arm and Float” section and select a whole unit for use in your tank. Chances are that there are more issues with the float design and valve you are using if the float arm is giving you trouble.


Q) My float arm uses a little plastic or brass ¼” thumb screw where are they located on the site?

A) Look through the valve parts section or use the search bar at the top.  After all the valves we show their parts and several of them use a thumb screw and there is plastic and brass shown there.


Q) My float arm is shorter than the ones you list what should I do?

A) If it’s a ¼” rod style buy one that is a bit longer and cut it down. The ¼” and 5/16” rods are all thread and stainless steel so you can do this easily. 



Q) My float is constantly causing me grief. I use a plastic float ball and have tried Styrofoam and both are causing me troubles. Do you have a replacement for these?

A) Look at our Stainless Steel Floats in 4”, 5” and 6”. The extra cost is offset by the fact that it will be the last one you buy for that tank. You will need to make sure you have the correct part to adapt a ¼” thread receiver to your float arm and valve.


Q) My Styrofoam float takes on water and lets my tank flow over what should I do?

A) This is an inherent problem with these types of floats. You can either use a plastic float ball in 4”, 5” or 6”. Usually if a tank has a small valve with a Styrofoam float the valve likely can’t deal with the weight of our stainless floats. You will need to look at how your float arm hooks to the Styrofoam float to make sure you get the right type of adapter to connect a plastic float ball to your valve.


Q) I have large tanks with my valves under water. I need a large float to make sure my valve shuts off what would you suggest?

A) I would look at the 8” Plastic Ball or the AY 12” diameter x 3” floats. These maximise buoyancy and assuming you are using a longer float arm that should do the trick.


Q) I am using the under the water concept with my valve and am floating the float above it. What should I use to connect my Float Arm to my Float? I have been using cord and it deteriorates.

A) We recommend 1/8” stainless chain. It doesn’t fall apart, its light and reasonably priced we have this listed under “Float Arms”.


Q) I have an element in my tank and when the animals drink it down it melts my float.  What should I get to stop this?

A) Look at the Stainless Steel Float Balls if they drop down on your element it won’t matter. You will need to know that your float arm will connect to a stainless float ball. (The receiver is ¼” female thread in the SS Balls)


Heating Elements

Q) I don’t know what type of element my tank takes. I will send in your inquiry page but what do you need to know?

A) We need to know what make of water bowl you have, if possible, even the color and whether it’s plastic, steel or concrete. We also need to know if your element is in the bowl or under it. We should also know if the element is 110V or 220V. Chances are that it is 110V as 98% of them are.


Q) I was sold a plastic tank that was supposed to be energy free and it freezes and I’m not sure what to do?

A) This is a common problem with tanks that rely on ground heat as ground heat varies. Not only by area, but also in any given area, and at any given time. Now with that said we have a very simple solution and that is either of our submersible elements. They hook up by either direct wire (you cut the plug off) or even with an extension cord. You ”must” protect the wires so that the animals cannot damage them either in a pipe or whatever is easiest. Typically the element is set in the tank under the valve and in the valve chamber. Both the 250W and the 500W have built in thermostats so that is not an issue.


Q) My steel tank freezes down below what can I put under there to eliminate using a heat lamp bulb or light bulb as every time they get water on them they break?

A) The frustrating part of this is that those light bulbs break and you don’t know! We recommend the Auxiliary Element in a bracket. This is an “Air” element that can just sit on your pad and even be hooked, inline, with your Thermostat. This element is only 98 Watts so it is like putting a bulb under there without all the grief of a light bulb. It should not be put where it can contact your water line as over time it could break it down and create a leak.


Q) I have large diameter tanks. What can I do to keep them from freezing efficiently?

A) We have a number of tank heaters and some that aren’t on the site so if you have a special situation, fill out our "Contact Us" page and we will make a recommendation.



Q) I have a thermostat in my tank that doesn’t look anything like the ones you show on your site. What can I do?

A) Unfortunately over the last 30 years there have been manufacturers that have changed out their thermostats to different types and some have even gone out of business. We can’t display every type available, but we can supply a thermostat for virtually any type of stock waterer that is out there. You need to fill out our "Contact Us" page and give us some details, like type of tank if you know it, and we will send you a recommendation. You should know that we may have to get you to e-mail us a photo of your tank and valve chamber so we can actually see what it will need.


Q) My thermostat looks like the brass one you sell but it has been unreliable and hard to set. How does this one differ?

A) Our Brass Thermostat is a shining star in our line up. The failure rate is less than 1% which is almost a miracle in its own right. It is very sensitive and only gets adjusted 1/8” at a time. That 1/8” is about 10 degrees F. If you turn it down halfway that is likely off. At the bottom where the adjustment is made there is a knob so you don’t have to run around looking for a sewing machine screwdriver!!


Q) I have an older tank that I don’t want to spend too much money on. Can I get a thermostat to keep it going for another year or two for not much money?

A) I would suggest that you look at our “Heating Element” section. We have a couple small submersible elements that have built in thermostats. We also suggest under the tank put an auxiliary 98W element down there to keep the riser pipe warm.


Hook Up Hoses

Q) I don’t see the type of hook up hose my tank uses. Can you supply me with a different type?

A) We have a never ending supply of connectors and fittings available, some of which are shown on the site, so we can supply anything. What we need you to do is fill out our "Contact Us" page and give us some details on what you need and we will make a recommendation and send you a price.


Q) What is the length of your standard hose kits?

A) We send all of the standard hose kits out at 36” but can supply them at any custom length. Just fill out our "Contact Us" page and we will make it custom and way you want it!


Continuous Flow Valves and Fittings

Q) I have continuous flow tanks and am sick to death with my problems associated with setting a petcock.  Can I get something that will replace a petcock?

A) We have developed a Petcock Replacement Kit. This is a high quality stainless and brass little 1/8” ball valve that will replace that petcock. In that kit there are adapters to insure that you don’t have to run all over to get parts to make it fit your system whether it’s 1/8” or ¼”.


Q) We are using continuous flow tanks and our pen checkers have had it with adjusting little drains every time the weather changes. Is there some way to make our life a bit easier?

 A) Absolutley! We took a couple sensors and made a system work such as you see listed. These systems are a bit complicated so I would suggest that you either call our toll free number or fill out our "Contact Us" page and we will get a few measurements from you to insure that the systems are shipped to go straight into your tanks.


Q) I have the Mini Sweeper all in one system already and it doesn’t work for me. Can you tell me why?

A) We do sell some but the proper way to install this type of system is to design it to fit that tank it goes in. We don’t just sell parts, we want it to work when you get it home. Call or fill out the "Contact Us" page and we will get you fixed up with the right system for your application.


Q) I am using brass valves with a little drain on them and they leak. What can I do?

A) Depending on your water quality, brass may not be your best choice as it reacts to everything (Rust, Calcium, Mag you name it). Try the Advanced Valves. They are PVC and non-porous. They have all but eliminated this issue all over North America.


Q) I am concerned about water waste on my continuous flow tanks. Do you have something to cut down the flow or waste?

A) The best way is to install a proper valve with an Auto Continuous Flow System. This will effectively cut water waste up to 70% and the good thing is you don’t have to mess with them!


Complete Valve, Float Arm and Float Combinations

Q) I have had all kinds of grief with my valves and floats and am looking for something new. What do you need to know to recommend a whole new complete system?

A) You have said a mouthful there! The issue is that if this part of an automatic stock waterer doesn’t work, it’s not much good. We have so many different styles but if you’re asking what works the best there is no doubt that the Advanced PVC Valves with a stainless float ball are the least amount of maintenance. The valves are awesome and the stainless float balls will be in place, maybe, forever. Are they cheap? No! But do you want a reliable system that will actually allow you to turn your back on it. Yes!


Q) I am not 100% sure which valve system will fit in my tank. I don’t want one too big or too small. What should I do?

A) Fill out our "Contact Us" page or call and we will be happy to figure it out for you. We need some information like the make of bowl, length, width and depth of the tank and it’s easy from there.


Q)  I am building my own tank and may use a tire what style of valve and float system should I use?

A) In our “Complete Valve, Float Arm and Float” section we have several types of valves and complete units that can either be mounted above the water or under it at the base of the unit.

Check out the larger Advanced Valves with stainless chain and large 8” round float or the AY systems in either ¾” or 1”.


Q) I have a small older tank. Can I put a larger valve and float system in it?

A) We wouldn’t suggest that you do that as the mounting will be an issue and some of the larger Advanced and Brass Valve systems are full flow which is liable to not shut off properly.


Q) How do the submersible elements with built in thermostat work?

A) The submersible elements that have a built in t-stat are completely automatic, if you will. They come on and are pre-set to monitor water temperature when the water gets to about 38 degrees F. They are set there because the temp. is always a bit higher in the bottom of the tank and we don’t want it already freezing by the time it comes on. There is a differential set in so that once the temperature reclaims it shuts off. Seems somewhat sophisticated but it’s really not. You will note that we offer two different wattages and I would always use the higher wattage one, if you’re not sure, as it takes no more power and it’s off faster. If it’s bought too small you will need two. It should always be placed under the float valve and in the float chamber, in an plastic or metal Automatic Stock Tank. Putting it there will keep it safe from the animals and it will evenly distribute heat.


Q) What should I do when my Automatic Water Tank Freezes underneath?

A) I would look at the “Auxiliary Element” in the element section. This is a little 98 Watt, grounded shielded, element that you can wire into the thermostat circuit in the bowl. It’s like putting a light bulb under the tank without all the grief of a light bulb. If you get one little speck of water on a light bulb when it’s lit up it blows up.